Exit 32, August 4: Whee!
For once, the weather was perfect for climbing. It’s been almost completely dry for 2 months, but the 100 degree heat from last week had calmed down — I don’t think it was even over 70 in the shade. The wall was a bit crowded with other climbers taking advantage of the conditions, including one crazy border collie who was spazzing around trying to catch invisible bugs, but they all seemed to be after the 12’s and 13’s so we didn’t have to wait long for anything.
I think this is the first time I’ve onsighted a 10c, and the first time I’ve even done a 10d (I’m not counting the 2 bolt wonder on Gritscone). Even though exit 32 grades are probably a letter or two soft compared to most places, and of course, these are all sport routes I’m talking about, I’ll take it. Until I have to aid up an 8+ at Leavenworth again…
- World Wall, Devil’s Advocate, 5.9 sport (lead) The wall was a bit crowded so this was the only route in the warm up grade range that was open. The best part is the hidden rusty piton.
- World Wall, Son of Jesus, 5.10c sport (lead) My first clean no falls lead on this route (I’ve done it with falls 3 or 4 times I think)! The key I was missing was the transition from stemming on good feet and okay hands to jug hauling with friction feet for about 3 moves. In the past I made the mistake of hanging around too long groping for a solid foothold instead of just hauling through the moves. Oh, and there wasn’t any water on the route this time.
- World Wall, Girls in the Gym, 5.10c sport (lead) Whee! I’ll pretend I didn’t hear my belayer tell me about the “hidden” jug (what I saw and used was a huge very not hidden hole) and call it an onsight. Fun overhanging really-this-is-going-to-work?? stuff at the top. Hardest part is clipping the second draw on the anchors.
- World Wall, Dreaming of a Life of Ease (1st pitch), 5.10d (lead) More rusty pitons! I got my real lead fall in for the day on this one.