Exit 32, May 14
Sara posted on facebook that she wanted to go climbing on Friday. Um, YES I do. It looked like it was going to be a huge trip, but it ended up being just Sara and Mike. Climbing with new partners is always interesting. This time it was refreshing to talk to people that don’t think it’s annoying that I want to climb more. Sometimes I feel like everyone else thinks a fun day of climbing is getting there late, doing easy routes, and leaving early to get some beers. There’s nothing wrong with that, but I personally would sometimes like to climb hard and stay out all day. This time we did have to leave a little early because people had to be somewhere, but I can’t complain — it’s Friday and I’m outside climbing!
Me
This is also the first time I’ve been at Exit 32 in the morning. The angle of the sun makes such a difference. In the afternoon the sun is behind the wall so it looks kind of dark and menacing, but in the morning it’s all beautiful grays and whites.
Salal and Sara
The highlight of the day was Sara’s redpoint of Son of Jesus. I got to lead it twice, too! I was surprised how easy it felt (except for a moment when I stuck my whole hand in a jug full of mud) since it took me a few tries to get it last year. I would like to claim that it was because got better but I’m afraid that I’ll have to credit buying new shoes, or maybe just having done it so many times. BLM-6 was really fun climbing, but it didn’t feel as good because I felt like I was cheating. I could just barely reach a pre-placed draw to protect a hard move at the 2nd clip (so I wouldn’t have been able to reach the bolt), so I may have backed off the lead if Mike hadn’t left the draw.
Mike
I also got to watch Mike work on a tricky looking 12b (this might be the only route I’ve tried that I haven’t even been able to fall my way up on TR…).
- World Wall, Reptiles and Amphetamines, 5.9 sport (TR)
- World Wall, Son of Jesus, 5.10c sport (lead) Sara and Mike let me lead this twice! thanks!
- World Wall, BLM-6, 5.10d sport (lead) note to self, bolts are positioned for a much taller person, much easier if the draws are there
- World Wall, Dairy Freeze, 5.12b sport (TR, didn’t finish)
“Sometimes I feel like everyone else thinks a fun day of climbing is getting there late, doing easy routes, and leaving early to get some beers.”
Gahhh! Yes! Totally!!!! Just like most people’s idea of a ski or MTB day is heading out at the crack of noon to ride or ski for two hours, then eat. Or not be able to get up to go climbing because they are too hung over. Or thinking that one lap on the mountain is quite enough for the day. Or the frequency with which I hear the phrase “oh, 9:00? that is so early….” And this, all from people over thirty!
Sorry this is so nonsensical, I have lost the ability to write in my frenzy to relate to your post and my joy in finding someone who thinks late starts are for losers.
Haha, makes perfect sense. Though the late start is sometimes a valuable strategy. Nothing like getting up before sunrise, breaking trail by headlamp, and then being caught by the next party who got there an hour later.